Heavy-DutyManganeseInstructions

INSTRUCTIONS For Manganese, (version modified from the Heavy-Zinc PARKERIZING in LARGE BLACK

carbon steel may be parkerized. You cannot Parkerize stainless steel, brass, aluminum or any other non‑ferrous metal.

Color will vary depending on the metal, condition, finish, hardness, how clean it is, temperature, which parkerizing you are using, and how you apply it.

All parts to be parkerized should be sand blasted, glass beaded and/or acid dipped. (4C or Naval Jelly, 4C removes just the rust and makes parkerizing more uniform, but it leaves a thin coating that fluffs off into the solution, Naval Jelly attacks the metal also). All rust, scale, bluing, corrosion, and oil must be removed. Once parts are blasted do not touch them with your hands or let them come in contact with any grease or oil. It is recommended that you wear rubber (I use blue nitrile) gloves throughout the parkerizing process. Do not allow recontamination or oxidizing.

Mix Parkerizing Concentrate with water. Distilled water is the best choice (I get it at my Grocer’s).

1.       Guardian and type “ShooterSolutions Heavy Zinc”: 16 ounces with 14 quarts of water, or 8 ounces concentrate with 7 quarts of water, etc. (Ratio = 1 (CONCENTRATE) for every 28 (WATER).

2.       16 ounces with 5 quarts of water, or 1 ounce with 10 ounces of water. etc. (Ratio = 1 (CONCENTRATE) for every 10 (WATER).

Parkerize until the reaction is completely done: 10 to 30 minutes. Leaving parts (Guardian) in longer will produce a darker color. You may pull the parts out at any time after ten minutes or when it is done (Guardian), if you are happy with the color, as long the bubbling stops. You may also immediately put the parts back in if it is not completely done. However it is not possible to lighten the color, only darken it. (As the solution weakens, time of Parkerizing will take longer, until parkerizing will no longer work. When it no longer works, throw out the now spent-solution and replace).

Caution: For the above step, if it should occur, if parts' fizzing does not stop within the prescribed time -and the part is either Parkerized, as shown by full color, or will not color completely, do not let it sit longer, as etching of the metal will take place - until there is no part left over. In other words if the time frame is not quick, then fizzing for a long period of time = over-doing the metal.

Then thoroughly apply with the “Parkerizing Neutralizer” with the supplied sprayer – good soaking spray. If spraying, you will have to rinse the parts first in water (running water or tank) then immediately spray. Do not let them dry on their own first. Wipe excess water of the parts, let dry. Re-soak really well again with the neutralizer, no water, and wipe. Once parts are cool to the touch you may reassemble your parts. Depending on how much metal is run through the solution it may be reused several times adding water to retain the volume. (Use a scribe line on Stainless Container or record distance from top with a ruler.) Solution may be cleaned before storage with the help of a paint screen.

Storage of used product: Use Clean “HDPE” Plastic Jugs with high quality lids like used for pre-mixed Windshield Washer Fluid. Seal well. Use tape if you want to make sure the lid doesn’t come undone. The neutralizer containers are nylon-lined. See more tips.

For more Information and Re-orders call ShooterSolutions™ @ 1-800-350-1537

On the World Wide Web: http://www.shootersolutions.com email to: help@shootersolutions.com

Dec 19, 2003